Another Side of Croatia and Slovenia: The Istrian Peninsula

Croatia is best known for its sun-kissed Dalmatian Islands—but along its northern border with Slovenia and Italy, the Istrian Peninsula is quickly becoming a popular cycling destination. With the distant peaks of the Alps tumbling towards the azure shores of the Adriatic, Istria is remarkable for its spectacular scenery, diverse viniculture, rich history, and delicious farm-to-table cuisine. “VBT’s new Croatia & Slovenia: Piran, Rovinj & the Istrian Peninsula Guided Tour is one that VBT’s team of Croatian trip leaders has been yearning for,” says veteran VBT trip leader Mario Gamulin. “To us, Istria is such a special place—with a culture, dialect, and history that’s very different from what you might experience along Croatia’s southern coast.”

A European Melting Pot

Jutting into the northern reaches of the Adriatic, Istria is just a short hop from Venice—and throughout its history, Italian influences have had a profound impact on its language, culture, and cuisine. “To this day, quite a lot of people in the region speak Italian,” explains Mario. “In Istrian Croatia, you’ll often find road signs written in both languages.” In Croatia’s fascinating city of Rovinj, often called “Little Venice” for its maze of ancient streets lined with historic homes painted in cheerful colors, your delightful hotel on the Adriatic coast is the perfect vantage point to discover the wonderful landscape, Venetian architecture, and Mediterranean-style cuisine of this beautiful city. With its proximity to the Julian Alps and the strategically important seaports of the Adriatic, Istria has attracted important visitors throughout its history. “Due to its location, Istria has always been a bit of a melting pot,” explains Mario. “The Italians played a major role here, and so did the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which had an important naval base in Pula in the late 19th-century. This brought many Austrian military officers to the Istrian Peninsula, where they left their mark on the local culture.” In more modern times, former Yugoslavian leader Josip Broz, also known as Marshal Tito, famously attracted many international dignitaries to his villa on Croatia’s Brijuni Island—a fascinating landscape of historical landmarks and burgeoning wildlife. Here, you may spot native animals roaming free—including mouflons, European hare, and fallow deer. Additionally, a visit to the Brijuni Safari Park offers the opportunity to spot llama, ostrich, and zebras—and other animals once gifted to Tito by his many celebrity friends.

Land of Wine and Olive Oil

With its key position along the northern Adriatic coast, Istria has always been an important trading center—even in the ancient world. “In Roman times, the best olive oil was reserved for the nobility,” Mario explains. “Istrian olive oils were sought after by the Romans—and today they are still winning awards for the top olive oils in Europe.” As you cycle Slovenia’s scenic Adriatic coast, you’ll pedal the famous Parenzana Trail—spinning past ancient olive groves and vibrant vineyards. As you cross the Croatian border and pedal towards the charming hilltop town of Grožnjan, you begin to see the telltale signs of Istria’s famous gray earth. “Istria is really well-known for its wines,” explains veteran VBT trip leader Ajda Ozbolt. “There are several important terroirs which give the wines different characteristics. Central Istria is known as ‘gray Istria’ for the gray flysch stone and soft limestone that lend the wines a distinctive character. And ‘red Istria,’ also called terra rossa, occurs in the region along the western coast where a high concentration of clay and iron gives the earth a reddish hue, and makes the wines particularly excellent. In the east, we have what we call ‘white Istria,’ known for its stony terrain, sparse vegetation, and excellent mountaineering. And of course, ‘blue Istria’ is our spectacular Adriatic coast.” The prevalence of high-quality wines throughout Istria’s history places the beverage center-stage in many local cultural traditions—including the fortifying community ritual called supa. "Supa is a traditional drink made with red wine, grilled bread, olive oil, black pepper, and sugar,” explains Ajda. “It’s traditionally served in a unique Istrian pitcher called a bukaleta—and was shared communally to lift the spirits and energize people for work in the fields. The grilled bread absorbs the strong wine—and there’s an old saying that goes: ‘supa vino popila, supa mene opila’ which means ‘the soup drank the wine, the soup drank me’—basically meaning that if you ate all the supa bread you would be very drunk!" In the picturesque hilltop village of Motovun, you’ll stay in a fascinating hotel with an award-winning winery showcasing the superlative vintages of the region. “Our hotel is family-owned by a winemaker who's really into organic wines,” says Mario. “The property includes several underground levels that house their extensive wine cellar. It literally feels like you’re descending into Batman's cave! The wine cellar includes an amazing collection of bottled wines, as well as huge ceramic barrels full of wines that are still fermenting. We will have a tour of the facility and a chance to taste some of the most iconic vintages.” For wine lovers, this is truly an adventure not to be missed.

In the Shade of the Mulberry Tree

A native Istrian herself, Ajda has deep roots in the region and knows many of the local traditions that have been passed down through the generations of Istrian families. As you pedal throughout the stunning and diverse Istrian landscape, Ajda, a naturalist, loves to introduce her friends to the many blooms and medicinal plants of Istria. “The mulberry tree is exceptionally important—producing delicious fruit with a wealth of health benefits,” says Ajda. “It is often planted in courtyards for shade. Mulberry must be heavily pruned—and those that live over 100 years have the most amazing shapes.” The landscape is dotted with an array of fascinating plants and roots with a role to play in the history and culture of the region. For those with a gourmet palate, the natural environment of Istria has yet more delights in store. “In Istria, truffles are plentiful,” says Mario. “As we cycle in the region near Motovun, we’ll stop at the lodge of local truffle hunters, where we’ll accompany them on a truffle hunt in the woods with their trained truffle-hunting dogs.” As we delve deep into the world of Istrian truffles, you’ll have an opportunity to explore the local truffle museum which gives an insightful history of this aromatic fungus—followed by a delicious lunch of many inventive truffle-infused dishes. As you cycle each day through the stunningly beautiful scenery of the Istrian Peninsula, you’ll find exceptional rewards waiting for you at days end—including delightful accommodations, fresh, innovative cuisine, and some of the most exquisite wines in Central Europe.