“Our gang of twenty friends and acquaintances – all first time travelers with VBT, with bicycling backgrounds ranging from less-experienced to expert – had a wonderful time on our Tuscany by the Sea adventure.

Individually we came away with countless, great memories of Tuscany, Orvieto and Rome. The fabulous agriturismo accommodations had all the creature comforts including fabulous breakfast buffets and some very memorable dinners that let us experience the Tuscan way of life.

Our two wonderful guides not only saw to it that all our needs were met and that we stayed on track with our ambitious biking and sight-seeing schedules, they took us off the beaten path and shared their rich heritage with us. They made the experience fun, meaningful, and it will forever stand out in our memories.

The trip included a Pre- and Post-Trip to Orvieto and to Rome where we stayed in very nice and conveniently located hotels and made the most of sightseeing. For me it was the trip of a life-time…”

-Lisa W.

Thanks Lisa! To give our travelers the opportunity to enjoy even more reviews, we’ve got a great contest. If you submit your own review about a previously taken VBT vacation by December 31, 2012, you’ll be entered to win $1,000 in Travel Credits!* Head to www.vbt.com, find a tour that you’ve taken with VBT and click the Traveler Reviews tab to fill us in on your experiences.

*Contest rules: VBT travelers who post a review by Monday, December 31, 2012 will be entered into a contest to win $1000 in Travel Credits. This prize is non-transferrable and not redeemable for cash. Respondents must be 21 years of age or older and must have taken the VBT trip that they reviewed. Entries must be posted by Monday, December 31, 2012 and a winner will be drawn on Friday, January 4, 2013. To obtain the name of the winner, send your name and address to Paul Williams, VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations, 614 Monkton Road, Bristol, VT 05443. You may contact VBT with questions or concerns related to customer support and satisfaction.

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1.  Chianti Classico

On any one of our Tuscan Vacations, you’re sure to find ample opportunities to sample a Chianti or two. Perhaps the best opportunity presents itself on our Tuscan Hill Towns by Bike​ vacation. We’ll make our way from Florence to Rome, straight through the heart of Chianti Classico country. So if you’re an avid biker with a taste for deep, dry reds, then you’ll certainly enjoy your time spent on and off the bike in Tuscany’s hill towns.

2.  Rosso della Maremma Toscana

Partly made up of the premier grape in Chianti Classico – sangiovese – Rosso della Maremma is a smooth red blend, often with notes of cherry, plum and even a hint of chocolate. Take advantage of the chance to sample wine at the beautiful Fattoria di Magliano on our Tuscany by the Sea vacation. One of their signature offerings is Sinarra, a delicious example of the Rosso della Maremma varietal.

3.  Pinot Grigio

If you’re cycling through northern Italy and the crisp mountain air sweeping through the Dolomite Valleys has you in the mood for a dry white wine, then you’re in luck. This region produces some of the most notable Pinot Grigios in the world. Balanced and bright, this young white will be light in your glass and on your palette, complimenting the range of cuisine you’ll find in northeastern Italy.

4.  Primitivo

Moving south, into the Puglia region of Italy, you’ll find a wine that’s always in a bit of a hurry. Its name, Primitivo, is a reference to the grape’s tendency to ripen very early. As a result, this complex wine offers a vibrant range of flavors. But don’t let the name rush you. Be sure to take some time on your Puglia Vacation to sit back, relax and savor a glass or two.

5.  Nero D’Avola

Though its title may have already given it away, this bold wine, indigenous to Sicily is very dark in color, but surprisingly easy to drink. Up until a couple of years ago, you’d have to go all the way to Sicily just to taste it. Fortunately, the varietal has recently made a splash in the international wine scene and you can now find it in many American wine shops. But don’t worry—we’ve got a great Sicily Bike Tour in mind if you’re up for an exciting, and delicious adventure.

Like Nero D’Avola, all of the wines mentioned are readily available without making the journey to Europe, but with nine different ways to Travel Italy, VBT is sure to have a biking, walking or skiing vacation that will tempt you all the way to the Mediterranean.

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Did we know about Puglia before we chose this VBT bike tour? Not really. It is off the beaten path for tourists. But that is what we loved about this trip. The landscape, people, food, towns are so like the Italy one imagines. I was fascinated by the masseria – the self-contained walled compounds dotting the countryside. I was thrilled we had a chance to stay in two remarkable examples of masseria during this VBT trip!

We biked every day along olive groves on quiet roads edged with low stone walls. It was a full sensory experience: seeing the individuality of the twisted, ancient olives; smelling the sweet wild fennel and oregano along the roads; feeling the sound-wave chirr vibration of cicadas; breaking open fresh green pods to find sweet, tender almonds inside; feasting on olives and cheeses and seafood and the local Primitivo red wine made locally. Did I mention I learned to make pasta with the master chef at the amazing masseria where we first stayed?

We were drawn to Puglia because of the charming, quirky conical dry-stone Trulli houses found in this region. I delighted in every one of these amazing structures I saw, whether the vast numbers in the World Heritage site of Alborobello or the unpretentious homes we rode by. My curiosity was satisfied by our opportunity to see the inside of a Trulli and how the architecture perfectly suited the environment.

And to cap it off, biking along the Salento coast looking out towards the Adriatic. Monopoli! Ostuni! Lecce! Each town magical in its own way. Do I want to go to Rome and Venice? Probably. But maybe I’ll just come back to Puglia.

-Anne M., Puglia: Italy’s Undiscovered Coast

Thanks Anne! To give our travelers the opportunity to enjoy even more reviews, we’ve got a great contest. If you submit your own review about a previously taken VBT vacation by October 31, 2012, you’ll be entered to win $1,000 in Travel Credits!* Head to www.vbt.com, find a tour that you’ve taken with VBT and click the Traveler Reviews tab to fill us in on your experiences.

*Contest rules: VBT travelers who post a review by Wednesday, October 31, 2012 will be entered into a contest to win $1000 in Travel Credits. This prize is non-transferrable and not redeemable for cash. Respondents must be 21 years of age or older and must have taken the VBT trip that they reviewed. Entries must be posted by Wednesday, October 31, 2012 and a winner will be drawn on Monday, November 5, 2012. To obtain the name of the winner, send your name and address to Paul Williams, VBT Bicycling and Walking Vacations, 614 Monkton Road, Bristol, VT 05443. You may contact VBT with questions or concerns related to customer support and satisfaction.

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The Tuscany bike tour vacation was amazing. I will remember the biking in Tuscany as much or more than the pre-trip to Florence or the post-trip to Rome. Yes, seeing the Vatican and the Sistine Chapel was a memorable experience. It was amazing to think I was seeing the paintings of Michelangelo. But, the beauty of Tuscany was comparable.

The biking immersed us in the countryside, the community, the culture, and the people. We passed through and stopped at a dozen small towns in Tuscany.

On our first night in Tuscany, we stayed at the Agrihotel Elisabetta. The owner’s son took us on a private tour of the wine cellar, and served us some of their wines along with some traditional Tuscan appetizers. The next evening, we got to meet the owner of the property. He is a self-made multi-millionaire, but very hospitable. He talked to us about his career starting out working in a restaurant kitchen, graduating to chef, finally starting his own restaurant and growing that to multiple restaurants before opening a hotel. He now owns several hotels and restaurants in several cities in Italy.

At the Agrihotel Elisabetta there was an open air patio area (about 200 feet long by 75 feet wide). I looked up and noticed what looked like a mini-version of tank tracks laid just inside what looked like a tongue and grove construction between the inside of the roof and the outside (upper side) of the roof. It was a retractable roof over the whole patio area. Later that night when the temperature dropped, I got to see it in action when they closed the roof panels.

In the dining area of the Agrihotel Elisabetta, there were hundreds of pictures of the Italian and U.S. celebrities the owner had met or who had visited his restaurants. The meals were amazing. The wine was enjoyable. And, we started to develop friendships with some of the other 14 people on the biking tour. Every night was great food, wine, and storytelling about the day’s bike ride; what we saw, where we missed a turn, what interesting stuff we found in the Tuscan towns.

The next night, VBT arranged for the tour group to have dinner at a nearby resident’s home; Chicca. Chicca (pronounced key-ka), is a chef, author of a cookbook, and a sort of celebrity chef of local renown. She opened her home to the 16 of us in the bike tour group and allowed us to help prepare the meal. There were folding tables set up in her living room. Plain but nice table clothes laid out, with a pitcher of local wine on every table. (That is not something one would normally experience on vacation).

Chicca’s home was apparently typical of the area, built shortly after WW2, small but comfortable inside, family pictures on the wall, paintings Chicca and her daughter had painted. She had a wonderful porch out back and some acreage outside with plants and gardens. It was an experience I won’t forget.

Two days later we had lunch (these were all part of the VBT bike tour package) at a wonderful olive farm. The owner and his two son’s gave us a 15 minute history of his farm and how they had resurrected it from previous owners 40 years ago and made it into an internationally known, prize-winning olive oil producer. The owner spoke in Italian, and Franco, one of our bike tour guides, translated. We bought a couple of small cases of their olive oil and brought it back.

VBT saved the best for last. The Agrihotel Montebelli was the most beautiful and lush place we stayed. The farm was a little over 250 acres of olive trees and vineyards. There were majestic views over the valleys below. There was a 500-year-old Oak tree at the highest point on the property with benches in its shade. Teresa and I took a bottle of wine and did the climb one afternoon with Carla. Carla was on the bike tour with her friend Janet. Carla was in her early 50’s. She was in great shape, but she said she was not an avid biker. We made friendship’s with another couple John and Patty. John is an avid biker, but Patty was not. John said he does 40-50 mile bike outings about 3-4 times a year. His wife Patty just rides with him occasionally and never for those same distances. There was a group of three couples from Burlington, Vermont. One of the wives, Tia, a mother of three boys all of whom were of college age or older, had not ridden a bike in years. If you asked Tia and her husband Peter what the best part of the trip was, I am sure they would say biking in Tuscany.

Teresa and I enjoyed the biking. It was not overly difficult. The first full day in Tuscany was a long ride, 33 miles I think. I had never biked that far in a day. At the end of the day, I was tired and little bit sore from sitting on a bike seat, but I was fine the next day (it was a shorter ride the next day, 27 miles I think). There was one day where we decided to take the van from the morning starting point to the mid-morning break location, because our guides said it was 16 kilometers of uphill to get to the mid-morning break location. Then it was 18 kilometers of downhill from that point and level riding for the rest of the trip that day. It worked out perfect. The downhill was a blast, and we still got to see all the towns and sites from the break location on. Our guides Franco and Matello were wonderful. They knew the terrain. They quickly gauged the capabilities of everyone in the group. And, they did everything they could to make each day’s experience good for each individual. I can’t say enough about how wonderful Franco and Matello were.

Around 6:00 p.m. on our first might at the Montebelli, the owner Allessandro took the whole group of us (16 in the bike tour and our two tour guides) up to his “outdoor office.” It was a group of benches strategically placed at a high point on the property looking out over vineyards on one side and olive trees on the other. Allessandro and our guides opened a couple of large coolers and pulled out plates prepared with prosciutto, melon, bread, and olive oil. They opened several bottles of Allesandro’s top wines and served it to us. All the while Allessandro is describing the history of Montebelli. His parents were from Italy, but travelled the world. Allessandro was born in South Africa. At some point, I think he said about 25 years ago, they decided to go home to Italy and bought the property in Tuscany. Allessandro said the property was in very bad shape when they bought it, and it took 5 years before they had grapes of decent quality to produce wines. At that point, I looked at one of the bottles of wine he had served us and recognized the label Fabula Riserva. I told Allessandro that I had tried his wine before, but I had no idea it was grown in Tuscany at Montebelli.

Montebelli was our favorite spot. Great food, good wines, ample breakfasts, and beautiful property that we could wander about. Teresa spent a few hours at the pool one afternoon. I enjoyed the sauna one afternoon. Montebelli has horses available for riding.

Our room at the Montebelli had an amazing view of the vineyards and mountains in the distance. The first night at Montebelli, they prepared a huge barbeque with all kinds of locally grown and raised foods. The chef personally served all the guests dining that night. It was very memorable.

-Wayne W., The Tuscan Coast

Let us know how your vacation went and submit your own Traveler Review!

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There’s been a lot of buzz about the location of our newest walking vacation lately, and now, even the New York Times is chiming in. On our Walking the Italian Lakes tour we spend days 7 and 8 exploring Lago D’Orta and Isola San Giulio, resting at the Hotel San Rocco in the evening.  Bonnie Tsui’s, The Secret Little Sister of the Italian Lakes, is a great read, filled with praise for the shimmering, little-known gem of Northern Italy’s Lakes region. Enjoy the full article Here or check out our tour page Here for a detailed itinerary of Walking the Italian Lakes.

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Every summer, Il Palio draws thousands of spectators to the small town of Siena to cheer on their favored contrade in two of Italy’s most time-honored races. The races occur on July 2, and August 16. However, the ceremony and the spectacle that accompanies Il Palio makes the entire summer a wonderful time to take in the old-world splendor of one of Italy’s most impressive medieval cities. Join in on the party when you visit Siena during VBT’s Tuscan Hill Towns by Bike vacation.

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When you travel to Sicily, begin to explore the ancient island with a visit in one of its oldest cities, Palermo. Boasting some of Sicily’s most notable historical, architectural and gastronomical highlights, the bustling center is the perfect introduction to your Sicilian adventure.

1.  The History

Founded by the Phoenicians, named by the Greeks, coveted by the Romans, developed by the Byzantines and then conquered by the Normans, Palermo has been home to a myriad of ancient civilizations. Fortunately, despite the fact that Palermo was established well over 2,000 years ago, traces of its assorted historical legacy can be found throughout the Sicilian Hub.

2.  The Architecture

Perhaps the best example of Palermo’s varied heritage is the city’s architecture. The Cathedral of Palermo, located in the city center, exhibits Arab, Byzantine and Anglo-Norman approaches to building. Each civilization adapted existing portions of the church and then molded it into their own representative style of building. In La Loggia quarter of Palermo, the Church of San Domenico is a brilliant baroque structure. Its ornate façade, accented by tall palms, gives way to an impressive interior, featuring large archways and stone pillars. Quatro Canti is the true heart of Palermo and features four nearly identical buildings at each of its four corners. Though essentially an intersection, this famous site is right near the top of the list of things to visit in the Sicilian capital.

3.  The Art

The city’s countless architectural highlights certainly blur the line between functionality and art. Be sure to take the time to wander in and out of the medieval passageways and hidden alleyways of Palermo and as you stroll about the city, enjoy its artistic treasures. No trip to Palermo is complete without a stop at Fontana Pretoria. Located in Piazza della Pretoria, the fountains were originally constructed by Francesco Camilliani in the mid-16th century and were to be on display in Florence. However, the structures were eventually disassembled and brought to Palermo about thirty years after their construction. Now, Fontana Pretoria remains as one of Palermo’s limited examples of Renaissance art.

4.  The Food

There’s no way around it. If you spend your day ambling through the city, the time will come when your body will demand sustenance. Fortunately Palermo has the perfect remedy – plenty of delicious Sicilian cuisine! Making ample use of the surrounding sea, much of Sicilian culinary tradition combines aspects of mainland Italian cuisine with lots of fresh seafood. Stop into a city trattoria to sample a fish stew, tagliatelle with lobster or stick to a more familiar dish and enjoy Pasta alla Norma: a pasta dish with fried eggplant. Afterward, you should have no trouble finding a small café or bakery to top off your meal with an espresso and one of Sicily’s notable confections.

5.  The Weather

Finally, one of the greatest parts of visiting Palermo is its relatively static, warm temperatures. With little fluctuation, Sicily’s northern regions are mild in the winter and warm up just a bit in the summer. So you’re free to explore in comfort throughout the day, and to continue exploring as the day winds down. Palermo is noted for its warm evenings, allowing extra time for a nice long passeggiata, or evening stroll before turning in.

Join VBT on our Sicily: Biking the Southern Coastal Villages​ and begin your vacation with a Pre-Trip Extension in Palermo to take in the wonders of this ancient Mediterranean city.

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Tuscany

This is the Italy that you’ve read about, that you’ve seen in magazines, that you’ve longed to visit since you began traveling. With vineyards perched atop billowing hills, cypress lined country lanes, fortified Etruscan ruins and just about all the mouthwatering cuisine you can eat, Tuscany rewards its visitors well. Tuscany is also our most popular destination, and with three distinct vacations in the region, we’ve got a Tuscan Vacation that’s perfect for you. Explore the islands of Toscana on our Tuscany by the Sea biking​ vacation. Make your way from Florence to Rome on our Tuscan Coast tour. Or, gear up for a challenge on our Tuscan Hill Towns by Bike vacation.

“Riding along the Tuscan coast has long been a “Bucket List” item for me. It wouldn’t have been possible without VBT, which set up one of the most well-run tours I’ve ever done. I appreciate the attention to quality, the various outside activities offered and I can’t say enough about our tour guides. I left Italy smiling from the experience and sad that I was saying good-bye to new friends. I will return to VBT without a doubt!”

-Jose M., Tuscany by the Sea

Northern Italy

Drawing on the influences of its Austrian and Swiss neighbors, Northern Italy features a variety of breathtaking landscapes as well as a unique blend of heritages. High above sea level, Italy’s Dolomite Mountain region offers up a Nordic twist on typical Italian culture, featuring a heartier culinary tradition, crisp green meadows and unforgettable mountain vistas. On our Italy: Cycling the Dolomite Valleys​ vacation, we ride along easy pathways exploring this northerly gem.

Virtually spanning the length of Italy’s crest, the Po River Valley may rest at a lower altitude, but its ethereal beauty rivals that of any European refuge and the Lakes region of Northern Italy has been a popular holiday destination since the Roman era. VBT’s Italy: Po River Valley and Lake Garda biking tour makes its way across the North from Portovenere and Cinque Terre to Verona, taking in the stunning Lake Garda along the way.

“I was able to practice my Italian with the locals, ride through numerous towns and watch their daily routines unfold. It was so much more experiential to travel this way. I felt more connected to the memories I made.”

-Jennifer S., Italy: Cycling the Dolomite Valleys​

Italy’s Splendid South

Slow down and explore the under-traveled South of Italy. Take some time to taste authentic Neapolitan pizza, sample exotic seafood and unwind over a robust glass of Primitivo. The region’s charm is thoroughly evident in its delectable cuisine and its rich vintner’s tradition. With an incredible view of the Mediterranean at almost every corner, our Amalfi Coast & Capri vacation rewards travelers with some of the best walking trails in Europe. Extending to the southernmost tip of the country, Puglia is perhaps Italy’s remaining unturned stone. And its landscape, dotted with fortified villages and medieval abodes, is sure to captivate your imagination and spirit.

If you care to venture a bit further south, the island of Sicily offers an entirely different Italian experience. Just off Italy’s southwest coast, the Mediterranean island boasts vestiges left behind from ancient Greek, Roman and Arab civilizations. On VBT’s all-new Sicily: Biking the Southern Coastal Villages we’ll our way along the coast, exploring the distinct culture that Sicily treats its visitors to.

“While I have lived in Italy and traveled quite extensively, Puglia was unknown to me. It is a gem, and all the more wonderful to discover it at a slow pace.”

-Mary D., Puglia: Italy’s Undiscovered Coast ​

With its varied terrain and exuberant people, Italy is a nation filled with contrast and brimming with discovery. With all that in mind, however, it seems as though one feature of Italian culture shines through every part of the country – the warmth of its people. Join VBT in Italy this year for fascinating cultural encounters in one of the most exciting countries in Europe.

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In Southeastern Italy, where the Ionian and Adriatic seas converge, lies the historical region of Puglia. With Greek, Roman and Turkish influences, the Pugliese peninsula is one of the richest and most diverse regions in Italy. Recently VBT’s own Marketing Assistant, Leila, had the opportunity to take her first VBT vacation. She called upon a fun, trustworthy travel companion, her mom, and set off for Puglia: Italy’s Undiscovered Coast. She has been kind enough to share her discoveries with us.

Though Leila and her mom had both spent a few years living in Italy before returning to the U.S., neither has spent much time in Italy’s south, and they’ve never visited Puglia. Excited to explore a new part of a familiar country, and maybe a bit anxious about her underutilized Italian, Leila wasn’t quite sure what to expect. What she found was a warm, welcoming region with beautiful scenery and tremendous food.

Number one on Leila list of highlights is, of course, the biking! She recalls numerous local encounters as she, her mom and her group pedaled their way through country lanes and along the gentle Adriatic coast. Riding through centuries old groves, Leila remembers being totally surrounded by trees budding with lemons, oranges, almonds and plenty of olives. To her left, to her right, above her on the branches that hung overhead and even below, speckled along the path, a scene abounding in olives was certainly an appropriate introduction to a region that takes olive oil quite seriously.

For example, on day 5 of her biking vacation, Leila and her group, visited Il Frantoio, a family-run masseria and olive mill. After meeting the proprietors, Armando and his wife Rosalba, the group was treated to a tour of the mill and then a decadent lunch. Each dish that was served was paired with a distinct type of olive oil, selected specifically to complement the subtle notes of the course. By the time the meal was over, four different varieties of olive oil were sampled. And though the group was served their lunch, Leila remembers the meal as being far from the typical restaurant experience, and much more like sharing a meal with a family in their home. However, lunch at Il Frantoio would certainly not be the only time that Leila would join locals in their residences.

Leila’s group met a Pugliese guide, Memo, on her sixth day of vacation. He showed the group around the historical village of Alberobello, which is primarily known for its unique architecture, cylindrical homes known as trulli. Having been raised in in the village, Memo is a familiar face around town. He invited the VBT group into a local family’s home to see the inside of one of the ancient structures. He was also well-versed in the town’s past, its Turkish roots and, over an almond liqueur, he imparted the importance that almonds have held throughout the region’s history.

Given that in Latin the name Apulia literally means “lacking rain”, Puglia is appropriately a relatively dry region. Over the years, this water scarcity meant that residents became heavily dependent upon almonds, which thrive even in very dry regions.

Leila looks back on a day she spent with her mom riding back to Savelletri from Monopoli. After a large lunch in town, Leila and her mother were the last to climb back on their bikes for their return to the masseria. Fortunately, this meant that the two got a chance to ride with one of their Trip Leaders, Debora. Along the way, Debora pointed out an almond tree and the three picked ripe almonds directly from the branches. An avid almond eater (she almost always has a jar at her desk), Leila has never truly gotten to taste all of the flavors that fresh almonds have. “I really got a sense of all the aromas; it was almost like marzipan.”

Of course, no discussion of Puglia is complete without a mention of the cuisine. Though there were many memorable meals, and an experience Cooking with Nonna, Leila’s favorite dinner was at Taverna della Gelosia, a rustic, family-owned tavern in the old town of Ostuni. With seven appetizers, two main courses and a decadent dessert, the dinner certainly satisfied her appetite for a traditional Pugliese meal. Even after having lived in Italy, and despite the fact that all of the dishes served had been passed down through generations, almost all of the food was new to Leila and her mom – the mark of true, local cuisine.

Dinner began with fried zucchini flowers, fish in blackened tempura, pumpkin tart with gorgonzola cream and a cauliflower tart with curry besciamella, to name a few starters. The main courses were a pasta dish in a black olive sauce with tuna and anchovies as well as veal made with Mediterranean greens and a wine-saffron puree. Topped off with a panna cotta and fresh fruit, and Leila’s traditional meal was complete.

Though she has been home in Vermont for a couple of weeks now, Leila’s biking vacation through Puglia: Italy’s Undiscovered Coast still seems to be at the forefront of her thoughts – proving that the meals that the she enjoyed, the memories that she made, and experiences that she shared with her mom and fellow travelers are guaranteed to stay with her for quite some time.

“My experiences in Puglia truly opened my eyes and made me realize that travel changes your perspective on the world. I saw how it allows you to develop human connections at another level. I really felt as though my trip allowed me to experience the essence of Puglia, through the guidance of our outstanding trip leaders, Giuliano and Debora, while at the same time developing close friendships with other travelers on the tour. It wasn’t only about the experience but it was also about sharing the experience with the people around you.”

Create your own bonds and lasting memories on our Puglia: Italy’s Undiscovered Coast vacation.

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Edie’s Journal

I finally got back to Italy. I have never been south of Rome and had heard that the Amalfi Coast was the most beautiful place on earth, so it seemed like a good place to spend a few days.

Friday

The walking group met in the lobby at 9. Ulisse was there along with our other Trip Leader, Vincenzo. They were experienced local Trip Leaders who spoke great English and had great personalities. I was more than happy to turn responsibility for my well-being over to them. The 12 walkers and the Guys hopped into Mr. G’s big van for the drive to Pompeii.

On August 24 in AD79, Vesuvius erupted and buried the city along with neighboring Herculaneum. It was discovered in the 17^th century and the restoration, begun in the 18^th century, continues today. We walked a couple of miles with Laurencio, an excellent local tour guide and I was glad to check the site off of my traveler’s must see list.

…Like many gorgeous places with perfect weather, Sorrento was first discovered by artists and writers. I could have written a novel in my room at the Europa Palace. A restored villa overlooking the Bay and surrounded by lush citrus gardens, the hotel was luxury to this little walker. I threw open my double French doors above the terrace and wondered if I’d ever leave. I did, of course, and followed my guide map for a couple of hours on a walking tour of this charming town.

Saturday

…Back to Sant Agata for lunch at Agriturismo Fattoria Terranova. What a delight this home and family were. They taught us to make mozzarella and braid it – and then served it to us for lunch. I don’t know when I’ve had such fresh food – meats and cheeses and grilled vegetables and fantastic bread and rice balls (a regional specialty).

…It was a beautiful Saturday night in Sorrento and everyone was out. I ran into Meg and Naomi from Chicago and we found a pizza. And then we found Primavera Cafiero, an absolute must for gelato. Two huge scoops later, we joined the locals and tourists alike for the passagiata – the traditional Italian night stroll under the stars.

Tuesday

Today we were hiking the Path of the Gods and I was excited…. The 6.5 mile walk is considered the most scenic on the Amalfi Coast and today the weather was perfect and sunny…. This was the best view ever of the three islets of Li Galli (or Sirenuse). Ulisse was our historian and knew well the story of Ulysses and the Siren’s because he’s named after them.

…Mr. G was waiting to take most of the walkers to Positano. And we were off on the road to our last spectacular destination… Our Amalfi Hotel was an oasis right in the middle of town next door to the small main square and situated in a citrus grove. I loved my balcony over the citrus groves – the view to the left was the majolica tile roof of the church and to the right the vertical houses of Positano going up the hill.

I had to see the church of Santa Maria Assunta which is famous for a large 13^th century wooden icon of the Black Madonna. Legend says that the icon was looted by the Sarcacens. When they got out to sea, the winds becalmed and they couldn’t move. They heard voices saying “Posa, posa” which means leave it here. They returned the icon to shore and the winds came up again. Hence, the name of the town is Positano. I wouldn’t mind leaving myself there.

Thursday

It was our last day with the Guys. We were headed to Rome and places far away. They let us sleep in and enjoy the breakfast buffet for the last time. We met Mr. G for a ride to the Gragnano Pasta Factory…. After a lovely lunch featuring the factory’s signature shell pasta, we said good bye to the Guys. They were excellent guides and I would recommend them to anyone…. I believe that the Amalfi Coast is the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. Hope you get there. Buon viaggio.

Edie A., The Amalfi Coast & Capri

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