1. Strolling in St Remy

On Day 7 of our Walking Tour of Provence we’ll meet with a local friend, Odile Mifsud, a renowned pastry maker who invites us into her home for lunch. Next, we’ll learn about the last years of van Gogh’s life and his most famous painting, The Starry Night - which was inspired by St Remy - on a guided tour of the village with a local historian. After our informative and inspirational tour, set out to explore the small, bustling village of St Remy on your own. What it lacks in size, it certainly makes up for in atmosphere. Its convenient, horseshoe-like center invites a delicious stroll around town. Luckily, there are plenty of cafes and restaurants to indulge in when you’d like a rest.

2. Marvel at one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France

On Day 4 of our adventure in Provence, we’ll take in the cobblestone streets of Gordes, which is included in the listing of “The Most Beautiful Villages in France.” Take your time exploring before ambling just outside of the village among Provence’s iconic lavender fields en route to Senanque Abbey. Here, we’ll learn how the lavender is cultivated by the Benedictine monks that still work and reside in this peaceful hamlet.

3. Mingling at le Marche

Getting closer to culture is one the best reasons to travel with VBT. On Day 5 of our Walking Tour of Provence we’ll combine a cultural experience with lots and lots of local food, visiting the market of Vaison la Romaine. Take in the sights, sounds and smells of local life here and maybe pick up a few of the most tempting items to enjoy for lunch.

4. Looking Out from Les Baux

One of the most interesting towns that you’ll find on our Walking Tour of Provence is Les Baux. Built directly into the rocky hills of Les Alpilles, this 12th century town astounds and delights visitors with its quaint shops and majestic views of the valley below. On Day 7 of our vacation, we’ll have time to explore the fascinating village and the Château des Baux, a fortified 10th century castle that sits atop the historic town.

5. The Food of France

On top of all the wonderful experiences that we’ve built into our Walking Tour of Provence, we’ve also left some time for you to wander on your own. Exploring in France is often best done by way of your taste buds. Enjoy free afternoons and evenings to find a perfect bistro to reward your day’s discovery. Best of all, our native Trip Leaders can fill you in on all the local secrets, spots that only residents know about. So you’re guaranteed to find a culinary highlight or two on your VBT Provence vacation.

Find your own favorite reason to visit southern France and join us on a Walking Tour of Provence this year!

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That’s the attitude that VBT Trip Leader, Sophie, took with her when she decided she would bike her own personal Tour de France this past spring, summer and fall as a 50th birthday present to herself. What a way to celebrate a milestone!

Sophie’s husband, Bruno, couldn’t resist the opportunity to join in and together the two biked over 3,000 miles of beautiful, French countryside. Sophie explained that she decided to set off on this adventure, “For the small physical challenge of biking 3,000 miles, but also to see things I have not seen.” For most of us this type of mileage would present a pretty hefty challenge. However, Sophie has been leading bike tours in France for VBT for 13 seasons and Bruno has been a VBT Trip Leader for 15 seasons. Clearly, they’re pretty experienced when it comes to biking in France.

The journey began in the southeast of the country and gradually, Sophie and Bruno made their way north. Along the way they had their first encounter with the Canal du Midi, a 17th Century waterway that was constructed to link the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. Though it’s over three hundred years old, the canal remains a vital waterway and it also offers a peaceful, tree-lined backdrop for a nice long ride.

Sophie and Bruno took the opportunity to explore a relatively familiar setting from a different perspective when they biked through the French Riviera. They had both experienced the bustle of the popular vacation-spot, but had yet to ride along the southern coast of France.

As the couple moved north, they encountered very different terrain in the form of rolling hills, and even steep mountain passes. Originally from Quebec, Bruno explains, “I choose to make my home in France because it has such diversity in such a small size.” He added with a chuckle, “Being with my wife is also a good reason to live in France.”

Perhaps Bruno and Sophie slightly underestimated the extent of that variety when, late in the season, they ascended a mountain pass in Alsace. As they climbed they encountered, first, dry leaves, then hard, cold rain and finally, snow at the top of the pass. They descended, thankful to get back to cruising along rural country roads at lower elevations.

After wrapping up their very own Tour de France, Sophie and Bruno are even more confident that, for them, France is the best country to cycle in. However, they did recognize that with vacations from Vietnam to Eastern Europe, it’s really hard to pick a favorite destination out of all of VBT’s Bicycling and Walking Vacations. Bruno put it best when he said, “If VBT goes somewhere, it’s because it’s worth seeing.”

Join Sophie or Bruno, biking in France with VBT this year. But don’t let their 3,000 mile journey worry you; when you travel with VBT, you can ride as much or as little as you like.

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On August 22, 1911, the French painter, Louis Béroud, made his way to the Louvre and arrived at the site where Mona Lisa should have been, in order to begin an artistic representation of the viewing area. Reportedly, his goal was to paint a different sort of portrait; he was after a reflection of one of Mona Lisa’s admirers in the glass that protected her from the public. In an ironic twist, when Béroud arrived at the spot, the protective glass remained, but the iconic painting was nowhere to be found.

Béroud reported the disappearance to Louvre guards in the area, many of whom had noticed Mona Lisa’s absence already. In fact, one guard noted that she was out of place on the previous day. However, he simply assumed she had been removed to be photographed, a relatively common occurrence at the museum. However, with the Louvre’s director on vacation, the museum’s on goings were a bit muddled. Upon a bit of investigation, it was found that there was no photography scheduled and that Mona Lisa was, indeed, missing.

Immediate action was taken. The Louvre was closed to visitors, France’s borders were sealed and a distinguished fingerprint expert, Alphonse Bertillon, was called to the scene to investigate what was beginning to look like the biggest art heist of the 20th century.

After a team of over 60 detectives completed a week’s worth of investigation, very little was known about Mona Lisa’s whereabouts, but Numerous details about how the painting was stolen were placed together. Apparently, the guard who generally oversaw Mona Lisa was at home with a sick child. His replacement, in the midst of his shift, left the painting unattended when he stepped out for a cigarette. It was determined that the painting must have been taken, very quickly, in the ten to fifteen minutes that the guard had left his post unmanned.

In the absence of a proper suspect, false accusations flew through France quicker than the Mistral. In fact, even Pablo Picasso was questioned in the disappearance. While it was found that Picasso might have had some minor, shady dealings with known art thieves, he knew absolutely nothing about Mona Lisa’s disappearance.

Eventually, the dust settled and the world moved on as Mona Lisa seemed to have been permanently lost. That is until December of 1913, when Vincenzo Peruggia, an Italian carpenter who had lived in France, emerged in Florence in possession of Mona Lisa. Reportedly, Peruggia’s grand plan was not motivated – at least not entirely – by the prospect of financial gain. Though he did request a substantial sum in exchange for the portrait, Peruggia claimed to have wanted da Vinci’s masterpiece returned to Italy, where, in his opinion, it belonged.

Upon getting in touch with Uffizi curators in an effort to place the portrait on display within the Italian museum, Peruggia was promptly arrested. Part of his plan did come to fruition, however, as Mona Lisa was chauffeured all around Italy before her return to the Louvre.

In the aftermath of Peruggia’s arrest, little more about the robbery was definitively determined. But the story goes that Peruggia had done carpentry work at the Louvre prior to the evening of August 21, when he pilfered Mona Lisa. He was a familiar face around the museum, and gained access without causing any suspicion. When he noted that the painting was left unattended, he seized the opportunity to grab the portrait and hide it under his painter’s smock before casually fleeing the scene. As for the painting’s whereabouts over the next two years: it remained in Peruggia’s apartment, collecting dust in a closet.

There you have it. No elaborate scheme. No grand heist; simply an Italian national who took advantage of a perfect storm of happenstance to remove one of the most famous works of art from one of the most iconic museums in the world. Thankfully, Mona Lisa has since resided safely in her home at the Louvre, playfully smirking at us all, perhaps because only she knows all of the details surrounding her infamous disappearance.

See what’s behind the smile for yourself and visit Mona Lisa on a Paris extension on any one of VBT’s French vacations.

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Day One:

Stop into the closest brasserie for le petit-déjeuner complet, the French equivalent to a hearty breakfast. You won’t see eggs, bacon or pancakes on your plate, but for 10-12 € you’ll get a slice of baguette with butter, one croissant with a little jam on the side, orange juice and coffee: your choice of café crème (latte) or a rich, smoky espresso. Charged from the espresso, and filled with flaky, French bread, you’re ready to set off for one of the world’s most famous museums, Musée du Louvre.

As you might imagine, you’re not the only person in Paris that would like to tour the museum. You may have to wait to get inside, but if you show up before the Louvre opens at 9 a.m., chances are your wait won’t be long. And if you do find yourself in a line, take the time to appreciate the grand palace around you, as well as the stark contrast between the historic architecture and the modern glass pyramids.

Remember that the Louvre houses over 30,000 works of art, including the illustrious Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo. Your best bet is to do your research before you get to Paris. Find out what’s there, and decide what’s important to you. Then, take a few hours to appreciate the art you came to see, and leave the rest for visits in years to come.

Note: Musée du Louvre is closed on Tuesdays. Opening hours are Monday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Wednesday, Friday from 9 a.m. to 9:45 p.m.

When you feel it’s time to move on, exit the Palace and stroll through Jardin des Tuileries. You’ll see quite a few tourists and peddlers along the way, but the quieter setting among trees and fountains makes for a nice walk en route to Place de la Concorde and then Avenue des Champs-Élysées. At this point you may be hungry, but you might want to skip the brasseries in the area, as you’ll have to pay quite a bit, simply based upon the location. Instead, opt for a crepe and take it to go as you make your way to your next stop, l’Arc de Triomphe.

Once you’re on Champs-Élysées you can’t miss the giant monument at the end of the grand boulevard. Head in its direction and perhaps peek into a designer shop or two on your way. Upon arrival, peer over the partition at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and maybe get a picture of Europe’s most famous eternal flame before heading up to the top of l’Arc for a great daytime view of Paris. You can purchase tickets ahead of time, if you wish, but the wait to climb the monument’s stairs shouldn’t hold you up for too long. At the top, take in the air, the scenery, the traffic below and the magnificent architecture of Paris. Look northeast at Montmartre for an exciting glimpse of la Basilique du Sacré Coeur. You’ll get an even closer look tomorrow!

Note: l’Arc is open Monday through Sunday from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.      

Depending on the season, you may have a couple more hours of daylight or twilight could already be upon the city. If the sun is setting, then it’s the perfect time to head toward the Eiffel Tower. It’s about a 30 minute walk from L’arc de Triomphe, but the metro will get you there even quicker.

Not only does the landmark boast an outstanding view, the history of the Eiffel Tower is also very interesting. Do a little research before you get there to augment your appreciation. Once again, you might find a line, and waits for the Eiffel Tower can be tedious. If your legs are up to it, cut your wait time in half, climb to the second level by stairway and then take an elevator to the top, or simply wait for a lift to get you there. As you stand above the city, take your time, get some photos, breathe it all in and make the most of the experience. Skip the outrageously priced champagne, though. You’ve had much better and you’ll want to save your palate for wine at dinner. Finally, when you’re satisfied that you’ve seen all you can see, return to the ground floor.

Note: The Eiffel Tower elevators are open daily from 9:30 a.m. to 11:45 p.m. and stairs are open from 9:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. or midnight, depending on the season.

With the world’s greatest art collection, and two outstanding views under your belt, you’re likely to be a bit tired and almost certainly famished. For an authentic French dining experience head to le Dix-Vins on Rue Falguière. It’s another 25 to 30 minute walk, so you may want to treat yourself to a cab or hop back on the Metro. Keep in mind that it is a popular restaurant. You can reserve ahead or wait for a while at the bar, sampling one or two of its fantastic wines. Be sure to brush up on your French before stopping in, as this is not a tourists’ restaurant. You won’t get much help in English, but if you give your French a shot, even if it’s poor, you’ll get great service.

Day Two:

Start your day with a more relaxed pace at Jardin du Luxembourg. You may have spotted Luxembourg Palace and its gardens yesterday evening atop the Eiffel Tower. Relax, unwind and take in lovely flowers as well as some great people-watching. You’re sure to see tourists here, too, but you’re likely to find more Parisians gracing its grounds.

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New for 2012, our Bicycling Bordeaux & the River Dordogne vacation gives travelers the opportunity to enjoy one of the most notable wine regions in the world. After an exciting, optional Paris extension, travelers will take in lush hillside vistas crowned by elegant chateaux as we cruise by the peaceful Dordogne River below. Our exploration will also include an informative wine tasting and a market visit to help us get a feel for local life here.

Moving east, VBT’s Burgundy: The Wine Route biking vacation begins in Lyon and makes its way along the celebrated, Route des Grand Crus, to Dijon. Along the way we’ll join a local family for a meal in their home, we’ll enjoy medieval remnants speckled throughout the French countryside and, of course, we’ll sample plenty of Burgundy’s delicate namesake. Then, cap off your vacation with an optional two-night stay in Paris.

VBT has captured the subtleties of two distinct regions of France known for their gentle settings and delicious wines. Join us in sampling your way through France on either our Bicycling Bordeaux & the River Dordogne or our Burgundy: The Wine Route vacation. Bon Voyage!

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Take some time to stroll along Cours Mirabeau, perhaps stopping in at one of the cafés that Paul Cézanne and Émile Zola worked in. As you wander about the city you’ll note its historical feel. Aix was initially settled over two thousand years ago, due to its natural hot springs. Accordingly, ornate fountains, bubbling with naturally warm water, adorn the city’s ancient streets. Before departing, both the Musee des Tapisseries and one of the city’s largest structures, the church of Saint-Jean-de-Malte, also warrant a visit.

Hopefully, your visit to Cézanne’s Aix has gotten you prepared to ride along the country roads and villages that inspired his work. As you bike away from the city, however, you’re sure to note the Provencal landscapes immortalized by none other than the Dutch master, van Gogh.

Head northwest, perhaps pausing in Salon to fuel up on baguettes, croissants and a rich espresso and you’ll eventually come upon Saint Remy—the evening cityscape that inspired van Gogh’s “The Starry Night.” With plenty of fine restaurants and quaint cafes packed into a small cobblestoned village, Saint Remy is a perfect spot to spend an evening unwinding after a nice long ride. Before setting off on your next ride, you might wander through Saint Remy’s main square, explore Saint Paul de Mausole, where van Gogh spent a year prior to his death, or perhaps visit the home where Nostradamus was born.

Next, hop on your bike and make your way to the ancient, fortified village of Les Baux. This ride, through the heart of the Alpilles Mountains, is a bit of a challenge, but also quite a treat. As you climb to the mountain pass, you’ll see Roman ruins speckled along the slopes below the limestone cliffs overhead. At the top, enjoy a quick break looking down at the valley before whisking past unspoiled vineyards en route to Les Baux. Be sure to set aside plenty of time to take in the tiny commune, which is, in part, built right into the ruins of an ancient castle. Atop the ruins you’ll enjoy a stunning view of Provence, even besting the scene you took in on your ride through the Alpilles, and that’s saying quite a bit.

Continue your bike tour of Provence along the base of the Alpilles over the Rhone River and finally passing over Pont du Gard. The Roman aqueduct was constructed in the first century to provide water to the city of Nimes. This outstanding example of Roman engineering was originally designed to be held together only by friction, and no mortar was used in its construction. It has, however, been rebuilt and restored since then. A series of clamps help hold the massive aqueduct together, ensuring a safe walk across one of the world’s oldest, great structures.

Before wrapping up your Provence bike tour and, perhaps, moving on to Paris, spend some time in Avignon. This bustling, fortified city is home to another famous ancient construction, Le Pont d’Avignon. The 12th century bridge once spanned the width of the Rhone. However, the years have taken their toll on the stone thoroughfare and less of it remains than that of Pont du Gard. Yet, most would agree that the four remaining arches serve as a stunning complement to the ancient city’s façade. Meander within the city walls, chat with the locals over a glass of Côtes du Rhône and grab a photo or two of the medieval Papal palace before departing southern France’s City of Popes.

See all of this and more on a bike tour of Provence with VBT.

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Nancy and I were part of the Loire Valley Tour in 2010. Our third lodging, after Bougency and Amboise, was a romantic 17^th century castle deep in a former private hunting preserve. Wild boar and stag still roamed. The rooms, flawlessly appointed in the elegance of the Ancien Régime, seemed to be decorated by Hollywood set directors.

Our eighteen riders and two guides dined each night in the castle’s main hall with a fireplace you could walk into. Remote as we were, the food was as exquisite as any in Paris. After six days of getting to know each other and our guides, Stephen and Pierre, dining together was the greatest pleasure of the trip.

Being a former naval officer used to dinner in mess dress, I rose to deliver a diplomatic toast. “To la belle France, to Lafayette, and to the French fleet off Yorktown.” More toasts followed and the French guides toasted America. I rose again, “Stephen and Pierre, will you lead us in La Marseillaise?” Protesting they needed more help, one of them went in the kitchen and reappeared with two French scullery maids.

Glasses raised, we sang La Marseillaise with free French elan. Most of the Americans knew the words from high school French, or perhaps from the movie Casablanca. It was stirring and awfully good fun.

Feeling wine and bonhomie, we next sang the Star Spangled Banner. I noticed we were not alone. In an alcove off the main dining hall were two French middle-aged couples at a small table by themselves. As we sang the American anthem, they stood and put their hands over their hearts in respect to America. My evening was complete, and I will never forget these respectful French men and women.

Robert W. and Nancy T.
Bellevue, WA

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Chestnuts are a classic ingredient for festive holiday celebrations. The seasonal delicacy can be used in stuffing and custards, or can be enjoyed roasted, all on their own. Chestnuts are prominent in recipes throughout Europe at this time of year, especially in Southern France where their harvest is celebrated fervently with countless creative and inspired dishes. Get in the spirit of the season, and use this Chestnut Soup Recipe as a starter for your own holiday gathering. This recipe serves 4, but it can be easily adjusted to size and taste. Bon appétit!

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It was on this day, December 15, that Alexandre Gustave Eiffel came into the world. Born in 1832, “The Magician of Iron” would ultimately be responsible for designing some of the most iconic structures ever made, including his pièce de résistance, La Tour Eiffel.

Raised in Dijon, Eiffel left his home in eastern France for Paris in 1852 when he began his studies at Ecole Centrale de Paris. The young engineer graduated in 1855 and was commissioned to take charge of the construction of Pont de Bordeaux, a railway bridge, in 1857 at the age of 26. He moved on to help build locks for the Panama Canal, and eventually took charge of the wrought iron, Maria Pia Bridge in Porto, Portugal.

It was here, in his construction of the Maria Pia, that Eiffel honed his flair for iron works. Latently innovative, the Maria Pia’s span was the largest of all of the world’s arch bridges at the time and the design proved to be inexpensive and efficient, as well as visually compelling.

Shortly after completing work in Portugal, Eiffel was selected among a group of over 700 applicants to raise a monument in Paris for the Exposition Universelle of 1889, a world’s fair organized to commemorate the 100^th anniversary of the French Revolution. Construction went relatively smoothly, and little controversy arose until after the tower’s completion.

Today the Eiffel Tower is celebrated as the most prominent feature in Paris’ skyline, however in its early years, the tower was rather unpopular. Many Parisians felt that the modern edifice took away from Paris’ natural beauty. In fact, even 20 years into its lifespan the French government considered removing the Eiffel Tower when its initial lease expired in 1909. Surprisingly, it was not the Eiffel Tower’s aesthetics that solidified its place in the 7th arrondissement of Paris. Rather the tower’s function in telegraph messaging was too important for it to be removed.

Eventually, the Eiffel Tower garnered popular support, and Gustave Eiffel’s name continues to live on in the form of the 1000 foot lattice tower, in Paris’ central west district. Experience the “City of Light” from a classic vantage on an extension in Paris on any one of VBT’s Biking Tours in France. Have you visited the Eiffel Tower? Do you find the tower to add or detract from Paris’ beauty?

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